
Quenched with Rutlands asking advice - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Oct 29, 2012 · You would have gotten a similar effect without the clay. 5160 will show a straight hardening line if edge-quenched in either oil or Goddard's Goop. If you want hamon, try to use older (1960-1990) US-made pickup truck axles if you have to use scrap.
Recommendations for minimising decarb - Bladesmith's Forum …
Oct 5, 2011 · I want to harden some small things with a lot of surface detail. Probably made from W2. Can you guess what I'm thinking of? I guess that avoiding decarb would be greated challenge to keeping the surface detail hard? I have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against ...
grrrrr..... blade won't harden - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Jan 26, 2005 · My quenchant has been olive oil, I recently switched to "Goddards goop" at about 40 parrafin to 60 oil with about a Tbsp of dishwashing detergent thrown in for good measure.
Osmund knife - Show and Tell - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Aug 17, 2023 · That does make sense! And that waterproofing goop recipe is what I and many others use as a finish on ornamental ironwork. I love the smell, especially when applied to hot iron... And I love that sheath! The stitching really sets it apart.
Quench Tank Ideas - Hot Work - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Apr 26, 2016 · You do not want to quench the handle tangs, so an edge quench in the goop with the handle tangs hanging down might work. IF you use a steel that hardens well in goop, which limits you to an alloy slow quench steel like 5160 or O-1.
Issues forge welding - Hot Work - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Mar 16, 2022 · A highly polished surface in a vacuum will actually weld at room temperature. So, either you're not getting hot enough, you're oxidizing the steel, or the pieces aren't in close enough contact. Are you using flux? Is the smoke/goop from the MIG welder getting in between the layers? Finally, how hard are you hitting it to set the weld?
BLO vs RLO? - Fit and Finish - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Mar 15, 2022 · Just an aside- tung oil is in the same boat. Most of what is available is mixed with BLO and has drying agents. You can still get raw tung, you just need to search it out. So yeah, depends on what you are doing. If I'm mixing up some handle goop for modern style knives I use BLO. If I am trying to keep a degree of authenticity, I might use the raw product.
Traditional Hatori Polishing Tips - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Jan 24, 2014 · Speaking from experience, you're not going to get a traditional polish with modern abrasives. There's just something about tojiru goop, and fingerstones that does things that nothing else will. My theory is that modern abrasives are too uniform and too hard to break down properly. Also, don't forget to make or buy decent nugui. Dry iron oxide artist pigments make a …
Knife with pleistocene bone handle - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Jun 15, 2024 · I want to do proper medieval leather dyeing sometime, but that's another project. I first finished the sheath end and thong more neatly, and then applied the leather dye. I picked dark red, emulating madder dye, of which I've seen examples getting this dark if well done. The sheath was then sealed with goop (beeswax, lineseed oil, turpentine).
Cutlers resin - Fit and Finish - Bladesmith's Forum Board
Nov 2, 2023 · I found an old thread (Tai Goo is part of it, that's how old) about cutlers resin recipe's, but I'm wondering if there is any new info around. I have a piece of some sort of antelope horn (Springbok I think) that is mostly hollow. I'd like …