May 7, 2024 · The result is the most authentic, continually updated climbing carabiner recommendations you will find. Our carabiner testing is divided across five rating metrics: Clipping (25% of overall score weighting) Unclipping (20% weighting) Weight (20% weighting) Gate Clearance (20% weighting) Handling (15% weighting) Why Trust GearLab

Jan 23, 2024 · The Petzl Attache has long been a favorite locking carabiner, providing nearly unrivaled versatility for all types of climbing. Its pear shape means that it has a large basket that allows for clipping many ropes or other 'biners to it at once without overlap or pinching, and its very large gate clearance makes getting these items on or off a cinch.

Oct 29, 2018 · When a carabiner catches a fall, the forces generated cause the gate to vibrate. The more mass in the gate, the more vibration, and the gate itself can flutter open and closed. The strength of a carabiner with an open gate is roughly 2/3 of its closed gated strength, anywhere from 7 kN to 10 kN.

Aug 15, 2019 · Refers to the carabiner's strength when loaded with a gate open. This can occur when a locking carabiner is improperly locked, or when it is inadvertently pinned and opened against the rock or other material. The open gate strength standard is 7kn for Offset-D shapes, and 6kn for HMS/pear shapes.

Oct 26, 2020 · A versatile choice for any style of climbing, and one that almost anyone can afford, but lacking the top end performance: The ultralight climber’s dream carabiner: lightweight and tiny, yet full strength: Rating Categories: CAMP Photon Wire: Wild Country Astro: Trango Phase Carabiner: Black Diamond Hotwire: Black Diamond MiniWire: Clipping (25%)

Oct 29, 2018 · When climbing with a double rack, you'll likely have at least 20 carabiners with you for your gear, and another 20 racked on slings or quickdraws. So compared to a beefier model, the Nano 22 could save you over a pound or more! That's no joking matter. If you want to have the lightest rack possible, then this is the carabiner to do it with.

Oct 26, 2020 · The Wild Country Helium 3 is a fantastic carabiner, and we think makes an excellent choice for racking cams, clipping nuts to, and for using on extendable alpine draws. Basically, if you are trad climbing, then these carabiners will easily find a place on your rack.

The Black Diamond MiniWire is a fresh new face on the carabiner scene, and is sure to become a classic for those who want only the lightest climbing gear they can buy. With a very small size and an exceptionally light weight, they can be a game changer for alpine missions and large climbs that are a long ways from the car.

We tested these carabiners on single and multi-pitch traditional routes in Red Rock Canyon, NV, and they came on a road trip Independence Pass, Colorado. We received input from six different testers with over 100 years of climbing experience between them, male and female, large and small hands. We took them on routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.12.

Dec 5, 2024 · The carabiner-free attachment system is more gimmicky than helpful, most of the time, and it's certainly not a reason to buy this device over other options. There is perhaps a bit more friction when feeding slack to a leader and when pulling in slack during top-rope belays, which can add a nice bite, or add annoying short-roping potential ...