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“Batik-making was also very competitive in the late 1800s and early 1900s,” Mr Lee notes. “The best way to ensure that your design could not be copied was to make it almost impossible to do so.

SUBANG: The Asean gala dinner tonight will see leaders dressed in something distinctly Malaysian: custom-made batik shirts, tailored for each head of government and state, sewn by local hands.

Although she had only $2,000 to invest, she put that money into paying the batik artisans a living wage, which allowed her to create her first sample: a bandanna she called Kupu, or butterfly.