The home of Albania’s late communist dictator Enver Hoxha is hosting international artists fascinated by the long-ruling leader’s library and the country’s history of isolation.

In the background, a cumbia. The sign is the shield. Colourful houses that identify Villa 31 are built on the name of the space: La Nuestra, feminist football. Below, the football. Two presenters ...

The metamorphosis of Villa 31 — where the Hoxha family lived for decades until his regime was toppled in 1990, five years after his death — encapsulates Albania’s radical transformation from ...