Easy-drinking and affordable, table wines have few regulations and restrictions—a rarity in French wine—and epic food pairing potential. When I tuck into bistro dishes like steak frites or ...

making it one of the world’s oldest recognized wine styles. But because of a gradual weakening of demand for port, table wine production is now as important in the region as fortified wines.

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The sites where it tends to thrive can experience tough growing conditions, which lead to more rigorous fruit selection and lower yields. This is one of the reasons that high-quality Pinot Noir often ...