Rather than the more commonly used puff or shortcrust pastries, Henderson goes down a different route entirely: suet pastry. If you don't know what suet is, it's a crucial ingredient in many ...

To make the suet pastry, put the flour in a large bowl and stir in the suet, parsley and salt. Stir in enough water to make a soft, spongy dough - you'll probably need around 250ml/9fl oz.

Place a little of this mixture in the pudding basin on top of the suet pastry. Prick the lemon all over with a cocktail stick and then place it in with the apples so that it sits upright.

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees. For the suet pastry, sift the flour into a mixing bowl with the suet and season. Mix in about four tablespoons of cold water so you have a moist but firm dough.

What suet gives to baking, British especially, is a lightness and fluffiness that butter doesn’t. A traditional steak and kidney pudding just wouldn’t be the same with a butter pastry ...