How best to see Italy’s dreamy Ligurian coast? Follow the ancient cobblestoned paths that wind from town to town.

Portofino, dotting the edge of the Italian Riviera 20 miles east of Genoa, is neither of these things. You could not describe it as a secret; you certainly cannot call it “new”. And yet ...

The glory of warmer days awaits, starting with a host of newly restored grande dame properties along the coastlines, ...