The silence is immediate, almost disorienting. Instead of the usual cafe chatter, there's an enveloping calm and quiet. No waitstaff rush up to ask, "How many people?", or tell me where to sit ...

Over 25 years ago Hoi An was still a town, with poverty rates at 20-30%. Today poverty has been eradicated, with only policy-supported households - those without people able to work -- remaining. Hoi ...