The name pays homage to Shahzad’s mentor, the late influential Indian-American chef Floyd Cardoz, fondly nicknamed Papa-ji, while the 13-course tasting menu blends traditional flavors and global ...

Erik Ramirez, the chef and an owner of Papa San, is well aware of this. “Everything is branding nowadays,” said Mr. Ramirez, who owns two other Peruvian restaurants in New York City.