Jarrod Fry is leading the Victorian Country Jockeys' Premiership in the most consistent season of his riding career. In his 18th year in the saddle, he has a recent winning strike-rate of 18 per cent.

But in Matsuura, the “Home of Aji Fry” (deep-fried horse mackerel), city officials and chefs have tweaked the usual recipe. The result has been a sharp increase in tourist numbers and rising ...