Now, it’s easy to make Italian food rich and hearty, and it’s easy to pile a lot of pasta on the plate and call that value. But if that’s all there was to Gambino’s, it never would have ...

Gambino, a sleek restaurant and bar that stretches ... with a single raviolo and nothing else on the plate. But once the pasta is pierced, peppery mushroom sauce erupts. There’s also tuna ...